Sarah Murray first encountered an artificial fashion model in 2023, noticing a young woman of color in a Levi’s denim overall dress. A commercial model herself, Murray felt saddened and exhausted. Levi’s collaborated with AI studio Lalaland.ai to create digital fashion models aimed at promoting diversity in their ads. However, the move was criticized by New York Magazine as “artificial diversity,” considering the fashion industry’s historical lack of diverse human models.
Murray expressed concerns about competing with AI’s digital standards in modeling to TechCrunch. Two years on, brands continue using AI models, unsettling many fashion enthusiasts. The latest issue arose when Vogue’s July edition showcased a Guess ad featuring an AI-generated model, stirring criticism as it appeared in the influential Vogue magazine, albeit in an advertisement, not a spread.
The distinction between an ad and an editorial was deemed insignificant by many. TechCrunch explored the fashion industry’s direction, interviewing models and experts as AI models gain Vogue’s backing, potentially altering the industry. They questioned the role of humans in jobs traditionally performed by models, photographers, stylists, and set designers as AI produces high-quality work more efficiently and cheaply.
Sinead Bovell, a model and founder of WAYE, noted that e-commerce models are highly susceptible to AI replacement. She emphasized that e-commerce work provides financial stability, though not fame, to most models. Paul Mouginot, an art technologist familiar with luxury branding, noted the high expense of hiring live models for photoshoots. AI allows the creation of virtual models, simplifying shoots, and saving costs. He cited brands like H&M, Mango, and Calvin Klein as having utilized AI models.
Amy Odell, a fashion writer, explained the financial advantage brands gain from AI models. PJ Pereira, co-founder of AI ad firm Silverside AI, highlighted the increased demand for content in a digital age, which is unsustainable with traditional methods.
Murray acknowledges cost benefits of AI models but argues that brands should not replace human diversity with artificial diversity. Sinead Bovell describes this as “robot cultural appropriation,” where brands generate specific identities for branding. Murray and other diverse models fear losing opportunities as brands opt for AI.
Some argue that generating likenesses of models in the AI era could provide new opportunities, allowing models to essentially be in multiple places at once. Yet, while this may benefit some, it may reduce opportunities for many others. Bovell suggested that models should focus on personal brand-building and storytelling.
Mouginot envisioned platforms moving away from using human models, though brands still desire unique human charm over artificial perfection. Artcare, a studio specializing in AI models, creates unique model avatars while considering ethical concerns around child models.
Claudia Wagner of Ubooker observed that AI usage in fashion is experimental and often more for brand visibility than substance. Meanwhile, brands enjoy increased visibility and sales despite mixed receptions to AI-generated content.
While some brands embrace artificial models, others remain cautious, worried about audience acceptance. For luxury brands, human talent remains indispensable. Despite Vogue’s recent use of an AI model, fully AI-generated models are yet to become mainstream.
Odell highlighted Vogue’s influential role, noting that if Vogue embraces AI models, it might become widely accepted, similar to its acceptance of Kim Kardashian.